Plant Profile: Flamingo Flower

Flamingo flower is a tropical, evergreen flowering plant which thrives in low light. It's one of the few low light plants that will flower in normal household conditions, and the blooms are a beautiful sight to behold. The foliage of flamingo flower is also appealing for indoor gardening, and the plant will live happily for many years with proper care and maintenance. Flamingo flower has been hybridized for the past 100 years, and various compact hybrids are available, all of which are ideal for indoor containers. One plant may live for as long as five years, or indefinitely when propagated through division.

Description:

Several very compact varieties of flamingo flower may only reach about 12 inches in height, but larger varieties can grow up to 18 inches in height and width. Leaves are dark green in color, roughly heart-shaped, formed on long-stems and can reach 8 to 10 inches in length. They are waxy in appearance, similar to the flowers. In fact, many people have commented that the leaves and flowers of the plant appear artificial due to their plastic-like texture.

Flamingo flowers bloom nearly year round, with one plant producing as many as six flowers in a year. Each flower lasts around 6 weeks before fading, or 2 to 3 weeks when cut. The showy, waxy flowers can be red, pink or white in color, and are the real reward of caring for this low light tropical plant. However, one of the most interesting characteristics of flamingo flower is the erect spadix, which protrudes above the spathe and can reach 3 inches in length.

Other Names:

The botanical name for flamingo flower is anthurium, which comes from the Greek anthos, meaning flower, and oura, meaning tail. The name refers to the distinctive shape of the spadix, or flower spike. Common names include flamingo lily, little boy flower and little boy plant, which are also in reference to the spadix.

Habitat:     

Native to the wet, tropical rain forests of Central and South America, flamingo plant grows best in moist, humid low-light conditions. The plant may even be grown outdoors in mild climates, but performs best as a houseplant in most locations. Some species climb or vine, and these will benefit from a totem or trellis, although most varieties are fine in a medium-sized plastic or clay pot.

Soil:

The flamingo flower prefers soil consisting of three parts peat moss to one part chopped sphagnum moss, with a little charcoal and loam mixed in. Other potting soils rich in peat are also suitable, such as an African violet mix. Fill the pot one-third of the way full with pebbles or crocks for added drainage, which is very important to the health of the arthuriums. Heap the soil over the areas where the leaves join the underground stems to keep the roots moist and prevent them from drying out.

Light:

Filtered, low light is best for the flamingo flower. It can be placed several feet from a well-lit window, where it will thrive and even bloom regularly. It should never be placed in direct sunlight. 

Temperature:

A constant temperature of between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit yields the best results. Flamingo flower is happiest when there is little change between daytime and nighttime temperatures, which makes it ideal for indoor gardening. If the temperature drops below 55 degrees Fahrenheit for any length of time, the leaves will turn yellow and may even drop. Keep the plant warm and it will reward you with beautiful blooms all year.

Water:

Flamingo flower needs evenly moist soil during the spring and summer months. Water once or twice per week as necessary to keep the soil moist, but be careful that it isn't wet for long periods of time. In the fall and winter, watering can be reduced, but the soil should never be allowed to dry out completely. Water approximately once per week or anytime the top of the soil becomes dry to the touch. Wipe the leaves down with a clean cloth soaked in warm water once every week or two to remove dust and/or insects.

Humidity:

High humidity is necessary all year in order for flamingo flower to thrive. The shiny texture of the leaves will be lost if the humidity drops below 50 percent for several days in a row, and the plant could die if conditions persist. To raise the humidity around the plant, place pots on trays filled with moist gravel, mist several times per day with lukewarm water or keep a humidifier near the plant at all times.

Fertilizer:

Feed flamingo plants once per month in spring through late summer using a high-phosphorus plant food. In fall and winter, feed once every six weeks using a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for proper dosage and application.

Repotting:

Repot flamingo flower in spring once every one to two years, moving to a slightly larger pot each time. Set the plant high in the pot, so that the crown is visible just above the soil line. Sprinkle the roots with moss or a thin layer of potting soil if they are visible at the surface of the soil after repotting. Propagate if necessary while you have the plant out of the pot, and water thoroughly after transplanting to settle the soil.    

Propagation:

Flamingo flower is best propagated by division in early spring, but only when the plant produces a new crown more than an inch away from the main crown. While repotting, gently pull the new crown away from the plant, and place in a small container. If proper care is provided, the new flamingo flower should begin to bloom after about a year.

Pests/Diseases:

Mites, scales and mealybugs may become a problem for flamingo flower. Check the foliage regularly for signs of pest infestation, and treat with a recommended pesticide according to the manufacturer's directions.  

Warnings:

Keep flamingo flower away from curious pets and small children. The foliage contains calcium oxalate crystals and several other toxic components which can cause severe burning of the mouth and skin irritation in humans and animals. Wear gloves while handling and repotting the plant, and always wash your hands thoroughly after touching, just to be safe.

Plant Profile: Piggyback Plant

The piggyback plant is a durable perennial low light plant, which will tolerate most household conditions. Its name is derived from the plant's unique reproduction method. Small buds develop at the base of each leaf where it meets the stalk, and new baby plants form on the mature leaf as if riding "piggyback." Even more spectacular variegated varieties are available, and they perform equally well in low light conditions.

Description:

Growing no more than a foot tall, the piggyback plant has bright green, hairy maple-shaped leaves. Each leaf has five to seven toothed lobes, which are rough to the touch. Plants grown in a low light environment rarely flower. When they do bloom, small greenish-purple colored flowers are borne on the end of long stems above the leaves. However, the flowers are insignificant and the true value of the piggyback plant is its beautiful foliage. The piggyback plant trails beyond its container, as the weak stems are strained under the weight of the leaves.

Other Names:

Piggyback plant's botanical name is Tolmiea menziesii, but it is also called by a number of common names. Mother of thousands, thousand mothers, pick-a-back and youth-on-age are the most well-known.

Habitat:

Native to the west coast of North American, the piggyback plant is accustomed to cool, moist and low light areas. They grow naturally under the canopy of large trees, particularly in redwood forests. This makes them fantastic indoor low light plants, as they cannot tolerate bright, direct sunlight. Although the plant doesn't grow very tall, it will slowly trail into a column, displaying its long, delicate stems. Piggyback plant is ideal for hanging baskets and planters. Smaller plants are best started in small pots and then transferred to 8- or 10-inch hanging baskets as they become larger.

Soil:

Piggyback plant is happiest in heavy soil with good drainage. Any standard, high-quality organic potting mix will be sufficient.

Light:

Valued for their tolerance of low light which would kill many other houseplants, the piggyback plant prefers filtered shade. It can survive as far as 8 feet away from a well-lit window, but its recommended that you place the plant as close to the light as possible. An east- or west-facing window will provide ideal conditions for Tolmiea.

Temperature:

The piggyback plant will survive a wide range of temperatures, but it prefers daytime temps above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Nighttime temperature should be between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit for the best results. The plant may be placed outdoors during the spring and summer months if the recommended average temperatures are maintained, but should brought back inside in early fall.  

Water:

Soil should be kept evenly moist and the root ball should never be allowed to dry out. Check piggyback plant daily and water as needed. If the top of the soil is dry to the touch, it's time to water. Indoors, the plant may only need to be watered once every two to three days, but keep a close eye on your piggyback, as environmental conditions play a large role in the duration between waterings. Apply water until it begins to drip from the bottom of the container. Discard any remaining water, as the piggyback plant does not like like wet feet.

Humidity:

Piggyback plant prefers high humidity. If the air becomes too dry, the leaf margins will begin to brown. Place a humidifier in the room with piggyback plants, or mist the air around the foliage using a spray bottle filled with lukewarm water. Use the finest setting to achieve a mist, and don't soak the leaves or use a narrow spray. 

Fertilizer:

Fertilize piggyback plants once per month during the months of May through September. Feed once every six weeks during the remainder of the year. Use a balanced fertilizer formulated for houseplants, following the manufacturer's instructions for dosage and application.

Pruning:

Pinch back old leaves and stems to promote new growth and keep your piggyback plant compact. Remove damaged leaves and stems as necessary. No further pruning is required.

Repotting:

Piggyback plants need to be repotted every 1 to 2 years in spring, as they outgrow their containers. Move to a pot which is a few inches larger in diameter and your plant will continue to grow. However, keep in mind that piggyback plants begin looking haggard after several transplants, so keep repotting as minimal as possible.  

Propogation:

Propogation is best performed by harvesting the small plantlets which form on the mature leaves of the piggyback plant. Fill 4-inch pots with a high-quality potting mix, pull off a few plantlets and place one in each pot. Tuck them into the soil, making sure it is firmly packed around the plant's crown. Water thoroughly, and then place the entire container into a plastic bag. Tie the top of the bag with a twist tie, and leave the new piggyback plant in a warm place for one week. Remove the bag and resume care as you would for a mature plant.

Warnings:

The hairy leaves of the piggyback plant may cause skin irritation in some sensitive individuals. Always wear gloves while handling and/or transplanting Tolmiea to protect yourself, just in case. Keep the plant out of reach of pets and children, as well. 

Plant Profile: Peperomia

Peperomia is a genus of small, tropical plants which are accustomed to growing in low light. Popular for their compact growth habits, ornamental foliage and diversity of appearance, peperomia plants are a low light gardener's dream come true. There are more than 100 cultivated species from which to choose, each with varying leaf size, color and texture.   

Description:

Peperomia plants are compact, reaching 12 inches in length and up to 36 inches in width. Appearance between species is varied, but all peperomia share a few common characteristics. Thick, fleshy evergreen leaves are typical of the plant, although they may be any number of different shapes. Some are heart or lance-shaped and others are oval or strappy. A few peperomia species feature trailing, thread-like leaves, which makes them more suitable for hanging baskets than other types.

Many species of peperomia produce tiny, non-ornamental flowers which are borne on upright, conical flower spikes (pictured on right). The lush leaves of the plant, which can be solid green, marbled or striped, are supported by thick stems which also vary in color from green to pink or red.  Leaves may be tinged with colors of creamy white, yellow, gray or red, which makes for very colorful and attractive foliage.

Other Names: 

Peperomia is also known as baby rubber plant, pepper face, radiator plant, and American rubber plant. Although these names usually only apply to one species of peperomia (p. obtusifolia), they are often mistakenly given to any species in the genus.  

Habitat:

Native to southern Florida, South and Central America, and tropical areas of Africa, peperomia's natural habitat is a shady forest floor. Peperomia plants thrive in high humidity, moist soil and low light levels. They are best grown in small containers or hanging baskets, no larger than 6 inches in diameter, and should always be kept slightly pot bound.

Soil:

Peperomias are happiest in light, airy well-drained soil. While they like moisture, they don't like to stand in water, which may cause fungal diseases. Add loam, sand, bark or styrofoam beads to a high-quality organic potting mix for the best results. Avoid peat moss and other moisture retaining materials if possible.   

Light:

Low light is best for peperomia plants, although they will tolerate medium  or even bright light. However, always avoid direct sun.Variegated species are not recommended for low light areas, as the  leaves will lose their coloration. As a general rule, variegated foliage requires more sunlight than darker green foliage. Keep this in mind while choosing a variety, particularly if you have very low light levels indoors.

Temperature:

Temperatures should be kept between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, which isn't too difficult indoors. Peperomia are tropical plants, and can sustain serious damage from the cold if temperatures drop below 50 degrees, so keep them away from drafty windows in the winter.

Water:

Peperomia are not very drought tolerant, but they also don't like living in wet or soggy soil. It's a delicate balance, and extremes on both end should be avoided. Drench the soil thoroughly each time you water, but allow it to dry out in between waterings. A peperomia plant grown in low light may only need watering once every 7 to 10 days.

Humidity:

Mist the leaves occasionally during spring and summer with a spray bottle containing lukewarm water to increase humidity around the plant. Peperomia plants like high humidity, and a well-placed humidifier can cut down on the manual misting.

Fertilizer:

Soil should not be kept overly fertile, as peperomia are naturally slow-growing. and over fertilization can cause excessive growth. Feed plants once per month using a 20-10-20 NPK houseplant fertilizer. Refer to the manufacturer's directions for proper dosage and apply a half-strength dose at each feeding.

Pruning:

Little to no pruning is required for slow-growing peperomia plants. Simply trim back any stems that outgrow their bounds as needed.

Repotting:

Move peperomia plants to a larger pot any time the roots have wrapped completely around the bottom of the growing container. Repot in spring while the plant is actively growing when necessary, although peperomia plants rarely outgrow their pots. However, you may wish to repot once every two years simply to replace the potting mix.

Pests/Diseases:

Peperomia are very susceptible to root rot and edema, a disease in which they take on too much water. Keep the soil well-drained to avoid these problems. Wilting may be caused by too little light, low temperatures or excessive watering. Mealy bugs and spider mites can be a problem. Check foliage regularly for evidence of pests. Treat problems immediately by removing the insects by hand or using a recommended insecticide.

Plant Profile: Clivia

Clivia is a genus of herbaceous, evergreen flowering plants, and they are one of the few types of low light plants which produce flowers. While clivia plants grown in very low light rarely flower, if you're able to provide a little special care, you may be rewarded with blooms. However, even if they don't flower, they can still thrive in low light and produce beautiful foliage.

Description:

Clivia plants are very long-lived and have been known to survive up to 20 years. They have long, strappy , thick and waxy leaves, similar to those of the cast iron plant, which emerge from the soil directly opposite one another in an alternating pattern. Due to this unique growing habit, mature clivia plants form a very elegant and almost perfectly symmetrical shape. Leaves and stems can reach 20 inches in length.

The flowers of clivia plants are orange, lily-like and borne in crowded clusters atop a thick stem once per year, usually in early spring. Some hybrids have been developed recently which have yellow, pink and red flowers, and are much in demand by collectors. Blooming of clivia flowers lasts several weeks, and then clusters of large, berry-like fruit are formed. The fruit ripen the following winter and turn an attractive yellow or red color.

Other Names:

Clivia is sometimes known as the Kaffir lily, bush lily or flame lily.  

Habitat:
Native to southern Africa, clivia thrive on shady forest floors, which makes them great for low light growing conditions. Clivia plants were introduced to England in the late 19the century, and quickly became popular for the large, dark rooms in Victorian homes. They prefer moderate temperatures, and cannot tolerate extreme cold or heat.

Soil: 
Clivia will be happiest in an airy, well-drained potting mixture (not potting soil). For the best results, make your own mix by combining a few handfuls of coarse grit and leaf mold with fibrous loam. Perlite or well-composed pine bark mulch will also work. Ordinary potting soil and vermiculite are too dense for clivia and may contribute to root rot. 

Light:
Clivia are very good low-light plants, and will enjoy life in an east-facing window. However, you can even place them in a dimly lit corner and they'll manage to grow, although they may not flower. Clivia will grow in most light conditions, except bright direct light.

Temperature:
Keep clivia plants at a temperature of around 60 degrees Fahrenheit during spring and summer months. Never allow the temperatures to exceed 65 degrees Fahrenheit or drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit at any time. They can tolerate a very light frost, but the leaves will drop if exposed to heavy frosts. In early October, drop the temperature by around 10 or 15 degrees, and don't increase until a flower stem appears or two months have passed if you aren't trying to produce flowers.

Water:
The growing medium should be kept evenly moist during spring and summer months, and allowed to dry out slightly for a period of two months during the fall/winter. During this time, water only when the soil is dry to a depth of two inches. The best time to allow the drying period is in early October, when the temperature has been lowered. This routine will encourage clivia to flower the following spring. Once a flower stem has begun to grow, return to regular watering and normal growing temperatures.

Except for the two months in late fall/early winter, clivia should be watered any time the growing medium is dry to a depth of one inch. Stick your finger in to the first knuckle, and if the soil is dry to the touch, water thoroughly.

Fertilizer:
Fertilizer is not necessary for the life and growth of clivia, but it will benefit from added nutrients when flowering. Apply a complete liquid houseplant fertilizer (such as 6-10-4) in early spring, as the flower buds appear. Refer to the manufacturer's directions for dosage and application instructions. 

Pruning:
Clivia plants don't require much pruning. Flowers can be removed once they fade, or they can be left to seed. The seedlings produced from this cycle will flower in four to five years if replanted and maintained. Yellowing outer leaves should be removed periodically. Aside from this, no other pruning is necessary.

Repotting:
Only repot in a larger container when the roots of your clivia plant become so large and swollen that they push the growing medium up and over the side of the pot. Clivia performs better, and produces flowers more easily, when the roots are slightly constricted by a small pot. Do not repot into too large a container when it's time, but instead look for a pot that's only marginally larger.


Propagation:
Propagating clivia plants consists of removing offshoots. When a plant matures after three or four years of age, it will begin to produce a few offshoots each year. Wait for an offshoot to form three or four leaves, and then remove it from the mother plant, making sure to include some roots. Place in a pot of its own, and care for the offshoot as you would any other clivia  Before you know it, you'll have another thriving plant.

Pests/Diseases:
Clivia is prone to infestation by the lily caterpillar (Spodoptora picta), which is related to the cut worm. The lily caterpillar has yellow, gray and black stripes, and black dots that look like eyes on its head and body. It can grow to two inches at maturity, and eventually becomes a red and cream-colored moth. If left untreated, the pest can cause sever damage or even kill a clivia plant.

The lily caterpillar pupates in leaf litter, feeds on the plant during the night and hides during the day. If you suspect an infestation, check the underside of the leaves and into the base of the plant early in the morning or during the night. If you spot caterpillars, they can be removed manually and destroyed or released.

Plant Profile: Aglaonema

Aglaonema is a genus of perennial evergreen plants in the family Araceae. The plants in this genus are wonderful low light houseplants, and are among the easiest to maintain. They are one of the only plants which can survive long periods of time in poorly lighted and badly ventilated areas. Numerous species of aglaonema are available, from gorgeous specimens with variegated foliage to darker, green-leaved varieties.

Description:
Plants in the aglaonema genus are slow-growers, but can eventually grow up to four feet in height, depending on species. They have large, glossy oval-shaped leaves on short stems, which arch outward elegantly and can reach 10 inches or more in length. Leaf variegation generally consists of gray or silver markings against darker green leaves. However, one species (aglaonema rotundam) has some red coloration, and another species (aglaonema pictum) shows lime green colors its is variegation.

Aglaonema species also produce small, inconspicuous flowers, which are white to greenish white in color, and give way to clusters of bright red, glossy berries. The name "aglaonema" is derived from the appearance of the plant's glistening flower stamens, with the Greek "aglaos" meaning bright and "nema" meaning thread. Aglaonema produces flowers and fruit periodically throughout the year.

Other Names:
Although no common name is given to Aglaonema, it is sometimes known as Chinese Evergreen.

Habitat:
Aglaonema are tropical plants native to southeast Asia, northeast India, southern China, Malaysia, New Guinea and the Philippines. They grow wild in rainforests, tropical swamplands and moist uplands. Surprisingly, aglaonema plants can tolerate low humidity levels, such as those found indoors, despite their tropical roots. However, wind and cold air can threaten them, which is their one major weakness.

Soil:
Not too picky when it comes to soil, aglaonema will do well in any high-quality organic potting mix with good aeration. They don't grow well in heavy soil mixtures, but they are particularly fond of soil which has been amended with humus.

Light:
Low to medium shadowless, indirect light is best for aglaonema, and placing them in a north or east-facing window is ideal. As with most indoor plants, the variegated varieties of aglaonema need more light than the darker green species.

Temperature:
Aglaonema prefers temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18 and 24 degrees Celsius), which is roughly average room temperature. They cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius), and long term exposure to the cold could permanently damage or kill aglaonema plants.

Water:
The soil should be kept moist at all times, but not overly wet or soggy. Water regularly and thoroughly several times per week in the summer months, but reduce watering in the winter. Never allow the soil to completely dry between watering, as this can cause the leaves to drop.

Humidity:
Although aglaonema tolerate dry air better than many other indoor low light plants, they are still tropical plants and will benefit from the occasional misting to raise humidity. Fill a spray bottle with distilled water and mist the foliage of your aglaonema plant daily, or more often if the air becomes very dry indoors.

Fertilizer:
Feed aglaonema once per month using a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer during the spring and summer. In winter, reduce fertilization to once every six weeks. Refer to the instructions on the packaging for proper dosage and application instructions.

Pruning:
Do not prune aglaonema beyond removing dead or dying leaves. Because all growth emerges from the crown, it cannot be pruned back without killing the plant.

Repotting:
Aglaonema only need to be repotted once every two or three years, as they grow slowly and prefer to be slightly rootbound. They may be repotted in any season, when it does become time to move to a larger pot.

Pests/Diseases:
Aglaonema are prone to scale, and it is one of their most serious problems. Indicators of this pest include a weak appearance despite regular watering, and small disc-shaped insects on the undersides of the leaves. For a light infestation, isolate the plant and apply a pesticide that is absorbed through the roots.

Visit your local home and garden store for an appropriate product and follow the instructions on the packaging for proper application and dosage. Heavily infested plants may have to be discarded. Always treat pests at the first sign of a problem to avoid losing your plant.

Warnings:
Aglaonema is considered a highly toxic plant when ingested. Calcium oxalate crystals in the leaves and stems of the plant can cause severe pain and irritation of the mouth and throat if consumed. Keep aglaonema away from curious pets and children at all costs, or consider another houseplant if this isn't possible.

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